Chef Akihiro Seto makes the most fragrant and punchy Japanese curry in Kansai at Taiyo, dressed with a soaring combination of vegetables and delivering a symphony of taste. Curry is a quotidian and unfussy dish. What Seto does is take that sense of familiarity and enhance it. Seto combines layers, or “waves,” that are in turn sweet, savory and spicy. It’s luxurious yet inexpensive curry. If you can handle it, you can also request his off-menu extra-spicy curry, but be warned: This curry has serious kick. (J.J. O’Donoghue photos)
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