Onsen travel guide: Family-run inn vs. Large hotel & What to see, eat, do
A travel guide to two local and authentic onsen towns surrounded by nature to suit your preferences – large hotel with many baths, or small inn with a more local feel. Which would you pick?
If you’re in the Nagano or Gifu prefecture, here are two great options to check out:
1) *Togura-Kamiyamada Onsen*
A charming and peaceful onsen town just a short train ride away from Nagano city, with some of the best food I’ve had in Japan!
*Kamesei Ryokan* is a traditional, Japanese inn run by an American-Japanese couple. I loved their warm hospitality, amazing food, and beautiful interior. Everything feels so authentic and many locals come here as well. This is a great option if you want a smaller inn with a personal touch.
_Note, Kamesei Ryokan has since undergone some renovations since this video what made, so please be sure to check their website for updated information._
Website for Kamesei Ryokan: https://kamesei.jp/en/
2) *Hirayu Onsen*
Up in the mountains of the Gifu prefecture, you’ll find the largest and oldest onsen in the Okuhida Onsengo area. There are many forest walks, a shrine, and a stunning 64m waterfall to explore here.
*Hirayu no Mori* is a large hotel complex with many rooms and 16 baths (with beautiful views of the mountains in the outdoor baths). It also has an in-house restaurant, gift shop, and small convenience store corner. There are several half-board or full-board plans. This is a great option if you want to have a huge variety of baths, but expect there to be a fair amount of guests here.
Website for Hirayu no Mori: https://www.hirayunomori.co.jp/en/
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Places mentioned:
Locations in *Togura-Kamiyamada onsen*
📍Kameya – A quaint-looking ramen shop with really kind staff. They had huge portions of (very good) ramen, and the tsukemen is still my favourite.
📍Oguro – A small restaurant serving up local specialty sauce katsudon and ramen. Expect a wait at lunchtime, but it was absolutely worth it!
📍Shichifuku (おやき七福本店) – Run by a nice lady, you will find the best handmade Oyaki here (Japanese dumplings with sweet/savoury fillings).
*Locations in Hirayu Onsen*
📍Yoshimoto – A few minutes walk from the bus terminal, this lovely looking restaurant serves some nice local meals.
📍Hirayu Grand Waterfall – A stunning 64m tall waterfall considered one of Japan’s top 100 waterfalls.
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Disclaimer:
All opinions expressed are my own and contain no paid promotions or reviews. The places and prices mentioned in the video were from November 2023 – 2024. Please be sure to check official websites for the latest information.
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Key moments:
00:00 The Japanese Alps
00:12 Togura Kamiyamada Onsen
00:29 Traditional Japanese inn
01:26 Exploring the onsen town
01:54 Food ideas in Togura
02:35 Accessing Togura
02:41 Hirayu Onsen
02:59 Hirayu no Mori hotel
03:41 Hotel amenities
04:05 Exploring Hirayu Onsen
04:34 Hirayu Waterfall
04:56 Food ideas in Hirayu
05:15 Day trip ideas from Hirayu
05:28 Accessing Hirayu Onsen