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Follow along as we explore Koyasan in Wakayama Prefecture, the center of the Shingon sect of Buddhism and a popular tourist destination due to its historic buildings, serene forest surroundings and in particular the chance to stay overnight at several of its temples.

– Chapters –
00:00 Intro
02:48 Nankai Namba Station
03:50 Gokurakubashi Station
04:09 Koyasan Station
04:34 Ichinohashi Bridge
06:15 Gobyobashi Bridge
06:48 Ekoin Temple
07:15 Meditation
07:56 Dinner
08:19 Night Tour
08:52 Morning prayers
09:29 Fire ritual
10:27 Kongobuji Temple
12:04 Garan
12:58 Outro

– Video Credits –
Host & Narrator: Matt Evans
Videographer: Charles Sabas
Video editor: Thomas Roennlund
Producers: Stefan Schauwecker & Export Japan

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Known as one of the great spiritual centers of Japan, Koyasan is at once the headquarters of Shingon Buddhism and a self contained community with its own university and around 120 separate temples. Reachable in a little under two hours by train from downtown Osaka, the mountain is today a popular destination, famed for its attractive buildings, atmospheric surroundings and the chance to stay overnight at one of its many temples. In this video, I’ll introduce some of the main highlights to an overnight visit to Koyasan, including how to get there using the digital ticket from Nankai Railway. The ticket includes a round trip from Osaka,as well as 2-days of unlimited use of buses on Koyasan. It allows for a smooth travel experience without the hassle of having to buy or exchange tickets at a counter or machine. The ticket is sold through various travel websites. After selecting a travel date and purchasing the ticket, you’ll receive a QR code for the round trip by train and cablecar and a pass for the buses on Koyasan. From Namba Station in downtown Osaka, I’ll take the Nankai Koya Line to Gokurakubashi, from where a cable car will take me to the top of the mountain. I’ll then use my digital bus pass to board a bus to the atmospheric temple precinct of Okunoin. After a scenic walk, I’ll check into my accommodation at Eko-in temple, where I’ll also take part in an afternoon meditation session, enjoy a course of Buddhist cuisine and end the day with a second visit to Okunoin this time as part of an after dark walking tour. The next day, I’ll make an early start to take part in morning prayers and enjoy a traditional breakfast, before walking to Kongobuji and the Garan, Koyasan’s central temple complex. After some time to explore, I’ll retrace my steps down the mountain and back to central Osaka using my digital ticket. I’m Matt Evans, staff writer for japan-guide.com, join me on a 2-day trip to Koyasan. I’m here at Nankai Namba Station, in one of the busiest and most exciting parts of downtown Osaka. I’ve got my digital ticket and I’m ready to set off on my 2-day getaway out of the city to Mount Koya. Let’s go! From Koyasan Station, I board a bus to Okunoin, one of the most sacred places in Japan and a popular pilgrimage spot. This is where the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism can be found, and where he is said to rest in eternal meditation. As the digital ticket also covers buses on the mountain, all you need to do is show it to the driver as you get off. Behind me is the Ichinohashi Bridge, or literally the “first bridge”, which marks the entrance to the Okunoin cemetery. Two more bridges lie ahead. The bridge marks the beginning of Okunoin’s cemetery, where over 200,000 tombstones line the two kilometer approach to the mausoleum – making it the largest cemetery in Japan. Over the centuries, many distinguished people from feudal lords to company presidents have had tombstones erected here bringing themselves closer in death to Kukai, and their hopes for salvation in the next world. For history lovers like me, the Okunoin cemetery is a real who’s who of Japan’s warlike past. Two of my favorite spots are the graves of Uesugi Kenshin and Takeda Shingen two great warlords who spent a lifetime in conflict now just a short distance apart. The area beyond this third and final bridge is where the innermost grounds of the temple start, and where Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum can be found. The grounds are considered so sacred that photography, food and drink are prohibited. With my exploration of Okunoin finished, I make my way to my accommodation for the night at Eko-in Temple. Staying at a temple lodging offers a unique window into the simple lifestyle of Buddhist monks. And with many temples in Koyasan offering accommodation to visiting guests, it is one of the best places in Japan to have this experience. After checking in, it’s soon time for the first of several unique experiences I’ve arranged to take part in during my stay an introduction to Shingon Buddhism’s own style of meditation practice, known as Ajikan. One of the main highlights of a temple stay here on Koyasan is the chance to try the traditional Buddhist cuisine of shojin ryori. It’s made without meat, fish or animal products – making it perfect for vegetarians and vegans alike. After my meal, I set out together with some of the temple’s other guests on an atmospheric night time tour of Okunoin. While visiting a cemetery after dark might sound a bit scary, I found it a thoughtful and moving experience, made even more fascinating by explanations from one of Eko-in’s priests. After a peaceful night’s sleep, the next day begins at 7:00 with morning prayers in the temple’s main hall. Next, I make my way to the Bishamon Hall for the chance to see up close another fascinating practice unique to Shingon Buddhism the goma gyo, or fire ritual. In this dramatic ceremony, a priest burns wooden sticks representing human desires in a special consecrated fire, symbolizing the wisdom of the Buddha. After this relaxed but thoughtful start of the day, it’s time to sit down to a beautifully prepared shojin ryori breakfast. Saying goodbye to Eko-in temple, I make my way on foot to Kongobuji, the head temple of Shingon Buddhism, originally constructed in 1593. Inside the temple, the first major room we come to is the Ohiroma, used for important ceremonies. Look out for the a series of beautiful screen doors, decorated with cranes by a member of the famous Kano school of painting. Another highlight of Kongobuji is its dry rock garden. The rocks, which were brought all over from Shikoku, the birthplace of Kobo Daishi, represent a pair of dragons emerging from a sea of clouds. Despite its mystical looks, the garden is actually only 40 years old. The last room of our visit is the kitchen, which features an enormous hearth and kamado stoves large enough to feed up to 2000 hungry people. Not far away from Kongobuji is the Garan, Koyasan’s central temple complex. Towering over the other buildings here is the 45-meter tall Konpon Daito Pagoda. Inside, the pagoda is centered on a statue of the cosmic Buddha Dainichi Nyorai, surrounded by other statues and painted pillars in a dazzling three-dimensional mandala. Legend has it that Kobo Daishi threw a Buddhist ceremonial tool known as a sankosho all the way from China, where he had been studying, toward Japan. Upon his return, as he was looking for a place to base his new sect of Buddhism, he came across the same ceremonial tool stuck in the branches of this pine tree, and began construction of the Garan here on Koyasan. And that concludes my 2-day trip to sacred Koyasan, made easier with the digital ticket from Nankai Railway. Thanks for joining me. I hope you enjoyed this video, and perhaps have some ideas for your own trip to Japan. For more information about this trip or to watch another video, click the links on the screen now, or head over to japan-guide.com, your comprehensive, up-to-date, travel guide first-hand from Japan. Thanks for watching, be sure to subscribe and click the notification bell for more videos about Japan. Happy travels.

5 Comments

  1. I had a trip to Japan scheduled in March 2020 that of course had to be canceled last minute. This part of the trip was what I was looking forward to most.

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