Travelling to Japan was our dream family holiday for over a decade and with three 20-plus-year-olds and two fifty-plus-year-olds there was a great deal of planning needed to accommodate everyone’s wish list.
The Japanese are a very friendly people and incredibly organised while the Tokyo Metro is user-friendly with English signage, and a Suica card is handy for travel and small purchases. For JR Pass holders, booking tickets in advance ensures a hassle-free journey.
October has cooler weather and lower costs, should that help with your planning.
STOP ONE: TOKYO
tofu meal at Shoraian. Pic: Supplied
Our first stop was Tokyo – vast and vibrant, Japan’s capital city can be overwhelming so to make the most of our stay, we hired a guide. This proved invaluable in helping us acclimatise and appreciate the city’s unique culture. We stayed in the bustling Shinjuku area, renowned for its nightlife and diverse eateries, making it the perfect base for our explorations.
The first day we used a cab via the Go app to visit the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building’s North Observatory, offering stunning, free views of the city’s skyline. Then we headed to Harajuku, where Takishita-Dori Street offers a kaleidoscope of quirky shops and vibrant fashion.
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Pic: Shutterstock
A visit to the MiPig Café, where you sit and cuddle adorable piglets, was a highlight for my daughter and husband.
The serenity of the Meiji Shrine, nestled next to Yoyogi Park, provided a peaceful escape from the urban frenzy and the heat, which was hard to bear.
We braved the iconic Shibuya Crossing, an iconic pedestrian intersection where crowds of up to 2,500 people gather every two minutes. Watching from above at Starbucks while people cross during dusk adds a magical touch.
For our daughter who is an anime and manga enthusiast, Akihabara was a must visit, and a vibrant and fun haven. Tokyo’s Anime Centre and Radio Kaikan has ten floors of collectibles, which is fascinating.
Inspired by the film Your Name, we visited the Suga Jinja Shrine steps, adding a touch of cinematic nostalgia to our trip.
Our foodie daughter’s precision planning when it came to eating stops in Tokyo paid off. Highlights included Soushi Meya Musabhi and Kura Sushi, a conveyor belt sushi restaurant, which provided fun and delicious dining experiences.
Red torii gate of Suga shrine, a shinto shrine in Shinjuku, Tokyo in summer. Pic: Shutterstock
The Golden Gai in Shinjuku offered a maze of tiny, atmospheric eateries where we savoured tempura and ramen, paired with lemon sours, all for around €10.
Recommended stay: Three nights covered key highlights, though another day would have been welcome.
STOP TWO: LAKE KAWAGUCHI
View of the lake Kawaguchi in Fujikawaguchiko in Yamanashi Prefecture near Mount Fuji, Japan. Pic: Shutterstock
Transitioning from the bustling city to the tranquility of Lake Kawaguchi was a calming change. The train journey of over two hours offers picturesque countryside views and glimpses of the majestic Mount Fuji.
There is plenty to do around the lake. We started with a thrilling 20-minute speedboat ride, which set the tone for our visit. We ascended the Mount Fuji Panoramic Ropeway, which provided breathtaking views from the observation point. Oishi Park’s herb gardens and the Chureito Pagoda at Arakura Sengen Shrine were serene spots for appreciating the natural beauty.
Oisihi Park Lake Kawagachi. Pic: Supplied
The food in Japan is incredible. A traditional meal at a beef cutlet restaurant called Koushuya was amazing. We also went to a wonderful traditional restaurant, 225 Kodachi, and watched as hand-rolled sushi was made by its elderly couple owners.
Recommended stay: Two nights.
STOP THREE: KYOTO
Kyoto quickly became our favourite destination. Travelling there on Japan’s world-famous bullet train was an experience in itself, with speeds of up to 320kmph. The efficiency and comfort of Japanese trains make travel seamless.
Kyoto, Japan at Ine Bay historic funaya boathouses at dusk. Pic: Shutterstock
We decided to shun the normal hotels and stay in a traditional Ryokan, which we booked via Airbnb. This is a traditional-style house with minimalist décor but it was very comfortable. It’s located in Higashiyama, a great area for exploring Kyoto’s historic streets, which were enchanting, especially at night.
Kyoto has so much to see and do. Gion, the district famous for spotting genuine geishas, offered a glimpse into traditional Japanese culture. Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine with its iconic orange torii gates is a must-see.
We also explored the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest at sunrise, enjoying its serene beauty, while the Sagano Romantic Train and a boat ride along the Hozugawa River Gorge was fun and you get to see the incredible countryside.
Hozugawa Kudari, Hozugawa River cruise at arashiyama, kyoto, japan. Pic: Shutterstock
With thousands of restaurant outlets in Kyoto, visitors are spoiled for choice. Our foodie daughter’shad read about Curry & Tempura Koisus and its exceptional Japanese curry, while Men-ya Inoichi Hanare offered Michelin-starred ramen, all for a reasonable price. We also indulged in matcha delicacies at a local café.
Recommended stay: Four days was ideal although I think you could easily do more time here.
STOP FOUR: OSAKA
Tsutenkaku tower in Osaka’s Shinsekai entertainment district on a sunny day. Osaka, Japan. Pic: Getty Images
A short half-hour train ride brought us to Osaka, known for its vibrant street food scene and dynamic city vibe.
We took in some sights, including Osaka Castle and its surrounding park, which were just beautiful. The Dotombori Canal area, with its eclectic street food, is a foodie haven and definitely worth a visit.
Unplanned but worth it, we went to a digital light exhibition at The Nagai Botanical Garden TeamLab and experienced a magical light display of flowers, lakes and music.
Wandering through Dotombori, we sampled an array of street food such as Takoyaki, a ball of batter filled with octopus and kushikatsu, as well as meat or vegetables on a stick, which were delicious. There were so many different options.
Recommended stay: Two nights.
STOP FIVE: TAKAYAMA
Takayama, Japan at the historic Sannomachi Street in the old town at twilight. Pic: Shutterstock
Travelling by train again, Takayama is nestled in the Hida region and it has a cooler climate and it feels like a real peek into traditional Japanese life. The countryside is simply stunning.
The Hida no Sato Open-Air Museum showcased historic Japanese houses, and our hike in Chubu Sangaku National Park, Kamikochi, brought us face-to-face with wildlife, including monkeys, and the soothing sound of river currents.
Sushi-Dining Nob and Matsuki Sushi provided exquisite sushi and a wonderful Hida beef experience.
Recommended stay: Two nights. was fine but you could easily do more.
FINAL STOP: BACK TO TOKYO
Hilton Conrad Tokyo. Pic: hilton.com
For our final treat, we stayed at the luxurious Hilton Conrad Tokyo, near the Ginza district. I had mentioned it was my daughter’s 21st birthday in advance, and the staff went above and beyond with a cake, balloons and room decorations. Stunning Tokyo Bay views, a Michelin-starred restaurant and a spa made this the most memorable stay.
I treated myself to The Mizuki Spirit Spa treatment which was heavenly, including a foot ritual, a Hinoki bath, tea ceremony, a bamboo massage and a facial.
We also went to the famous TeamLab’s which is a digital, immersive and sensory experience using lights, water and nature – it is truly stunning.
The Mizuki Spirit Spa. Pic: Hilton.com
For our last meal, we booked a traditional Wagyu beef restaurant at Yakiniku Washino and revisited our favourite street food spots, relishing our last bites of Japanese sushi.
Recommended stay: Two nights. offered a luxurious end to our journey, but we could have stayed for weeks.
TRAVEL FACTS
Mars flew with British Airways from Belfast via London, and it was an excellent experience. The Premium Economy flights were €1,540 each return, see ba.com. Sunway has a Japan – Freelance seven-night break that includes Two nights. each in Osaka and Tokyo and one each in Hiroshima, Kyoto and Hakone. Priced €2,199pp including flights, rail pass and hotels on a room-only basis. See sunway.ie.
AloJapan.com